The short version
- Wide aperture, f/1.8 to f/2.8, for creamy background blur.
- Shutter speed of at least 1/200 to freeze people and avoid shake.
- Focus on the eyes. If the eyes are sharp, the portrait works.
- An 85mm lens is the classic portrait focal length.
Last updated · Exposure Triangle Simulator editorial team · How we test
Portrait settings chart
| Situation | Aperture | Shutter | ISO | Mode | Focus |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outdoor, golden hour | f/1.8 - f/2.8 | 1/250 | 100 | A or M | Eye AF / eyes |
| Indoor, window light | f/2 | 1/200 | 800 - 1600 | A or M | Eye AF / eyes |
| Group of people | f/5.6 - f/8 | 1/250 | 100 - 400 | A or M | Front row |
Shoot a few frames at f/1.8 and a few at f/2.8. At very wide apertures the depth of field is paper thin, so a small safety margin saves shots.
Why portraits love a wide aperture
A wide aperture does two things for a portrait. It lets in lots of light, and it throws the background out of focus, which makes the person stand out. That soft background blur is called bokeh. Try the comparison on the aperture guide to see f/1.8 against f/11.
- Start at f/2. Focus on the eyes, take the shot, then check at 100 percent zoom.
- If only one eye is sharp, stop down to f/2.8. Depth of field gets thinner the closer you stand.
- Move the subject away from the background. Blur grows with distance behind them, so a few extra steps beat a wider aperture.
Eyes first, always
Viewers look at the eyes first, so the eyes must be the sharpest thing in the frame. Most cameras now have eye detection autofocus. Turn it on and let the camera do the tracking while you compose.
- Eye AF on. If your camera has it, this is the single biggest portrait upgrade.
- Single point on the near eye if there is no eye AF. Focus and recompose carefully.
- Back-button focus separates focusing from the shutter button, handy when the subject moves between shots.
Shoot when the light is kind
The hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset, golden hour, wraps faces in warm soft light. Overcast days work too: clouds are a giant softbox. Harsh midday sun carves hard shadows under eyes and noses.
- Golden hour: warm, directional, flattering. Plan portraits for it when you can.
- Open shade: a porch or building shadow on a bright day gives soft, even light.
- Window light: indoors, put the subject near a large window, facing it at an angle.
Common portrait mistakes
- Shooting groups at f/1.8. People in the back row will be soft. Stop down to f/5.6 or f/8 for groups.
- Shutter speed too slow. People sway and blink. 1/200 is the floor; go faster with kids.
- Focusing on the nose. It feels close enough, but the eyes drift soft. Aim at the near eye.
- Busy backgrounds. A tree growing out of someone's head ruins the shot. Move yourself, not the subject.
Five tips that show immediately
- Shoot at eye level or slightly above. Looking up at a camera is flattering for almost everyone.
- Talk while you shoot. A laughing subject beats a stiff one every time.
- Leave space in the frame. Cropping tight in camera leaves no room to straighten later.
- Check the edges before you press the shutter. Poles, signs and hands get cut off at the borders.
- Take more frames than feels necessary. Expressions change in fractions of a second.
Take these settings into the field
The free camera settings cheat sheet packs starter settings for portraits, landscapes, sports, street, night and more onto two printable pages. Keep it in your camera bag.
Frequently asked questions
What aperture is best for portraits?
f/1.8 to f/2.8 for a single person, for creamy background blur with the eyes sharp. For groups, stop down to f/5.6 or f/8 so everyone is in focus.
What shutter speed should I use for portraits?
At least 1/200 for adults, 1/500 for kids who will not sit still. Faster is always safe; blur from subject movement looks the same as camera shake.
Why are my portraits blurry?
Usually one of three things: the shutter speed was too slow for the movement, focus landed on the nose or background instead of the eyes, or the aperture was so wide that the depth of field missed. Check which one at 100 percent zoom.
Why is the background not blurry in my portraits?
Three levers control background blur: a wider aperture, a longer lens, and more distance between the subject and the background. Open up to f/2.8 or wider, zoom to 85mm or more, and pull the subject away from walls and trees.
What is the best lens for portraits?
An 85mm prime is the classic choice: flattering perspective and easy background blur. A 50mm f/1.8 is the budget king and works on any camera.